Business Food Restaurant

Oak & Coal and the California Roll

If you've never heard of the Japanese cuisine "yakitori," Oak & Coal is a good place for you to start, and this guide will make it all that much easier for to do that.

Several decades ago (I’m going to pretend it was only a couple decades ago), I’d give friends an unknown rectangular, flat, blackish green, crispy strips to eat. Back then, you’d only see “The Princess” in the movie, the Breakfast Club eating this “exotic” food for her lunch. Nowadays “The Brain,” “The Basket Case,” “The Criminal,” and even “The Athlete” have most likely had or tried “nori” (seaweed). That’s primarily due to the availability of sushi being almost everywhere in California, but maybe that all came about because the nori which is major ingredient in the California roll is hidden to make it more appealing to people new to sushi. If so, Oak & Coal is the “California roll” of Japanese inspired yakitori-ya’s aka places that grill up chicken/meat on a steak with alcohol and drinking. I say that because Oak & Coal has created a yakitori-ya (yakitori restaurant) ideally suited for people who have and have never had yakitori, but are experiencing it with the nori hidden.

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That’s not a camping supply or a smoke shop.

Seventeenth Street has been changing for some time with the turnover of old businesses. They have given way to new spots like Tabu Shabu (same owner as Oak & Coal), Pit Fire Pizza, Temakira, Sidecar Donuts, Burger Lounge to the renovation of the over fives decades old Pierce Street Annex into a 1900’s style country club.

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How can you not like the iconography and the typography

Yakitori” might sound exotic and foreign like the “Bolshoi theater in Russia does, but after a few Russian language lessons after trying to learn all the bad words from my Russian friend, I eventually learned that “bolshoi” just meant “big” or “grand.” If you think that’s lackluster, you’ll be disappointed to know that “yakitori” which just means “yaki” = grilled and “tori” = chicken. Knowing the definitions now, I feel a lot of the magic in the world has faded away. That’s why I won’t ruin it all for you by translating “Mount” Midoriyama from the show American Ninja Warrior which BTW, the original Japanese version, SASUKE  is better. The American show just takes itself way too seriously.

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They kill it with the service here because everybody here is cool as hell (if there’s a dick, they must hide this person in the prep section or the walk-in because I didn’t come across them).

Trying new foods or getting into anything new has an entry curve. For some, you may have had a childhood friend that exposed you to things early on. If not, you have your new BFF “Oak & Coal” to make it easy for you, and you’d almost never know that it was a Japanese inspired cuisine at all. Not to say it isn’t like a yakitori-ya because if you ever decide to walk into a yakitori-ya in Japan, you’ll realize they got all the core attributes of a yakitori-ya down. The main things they got right, is that this has to be the type of spot where a Japanese salarymen (the white-collar of Japan) would want to come after work for a drink to drink themselves silly with small bites of food. If that doesn’t sound enticing, isn’t good to know that you’ll be able to add meat on a stick to your diet of sammiches, burgers, and pizza.

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The “toboggan” (sled) like plating.

Nothing from the store front or the name of the business would blatantly give off that the restaurant is a yakitori-ya, but once inside you’ll find chopsticks, Japanese based condiments, and a counter with an open kitchen like many yakitori-ya in Japan (a noren might be a good finishing touch).

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Clockwise (starting from the far left): Ume (plum), ninniku (grated garlic) and yuzu kosho (citrus chili).

Going into an Indian restaurant, I never know what you’re supposed to do with some of the sauces such as “mint chutney” or even knowing that it’s called “mint chutney,” or if it has mint in it (it does), or what a chutney is!? Whatever it is, I put it on my tandoori chicken, but I wasn’t sure if you’re supposed to do that till I asked my Indian friend which he says “no because the chicken is coated in masala.” Not like you can’t use it on anything you damn well please, but some sauces and seasonings that go better with some types of meats than others, so here are my suggestions:

  • Red stuff aka “ume,” plum (more like an apricot): recommended for pork (delicious on pork belly), or even possibly chicken like the chicken meatballs since it’ll compliment the “shiso” (Perilla leaf) in the meatball.
  • White stuff grated ninniku: Love garlic, but the only thing I could think of is the chicken possibly, maybe the chicken thighs.
  • Green stuff yuzu kosho: is great with a lot of things like pork, chicken, and seafood like scallops. This condiment, if it were to be marketed to the mainstream market correctly, it’d probably be up there with upwards the popularity of Sriracha sauce.
  • The tray: I don’t think I tasted it, but it must be their “tare” which is basically a teriyaki sauce – you know what to with this.
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“Furikake” which I would typically use to season plain rice.

Other condiments not pictured:

  • Sansho Pepper: a spicy peppercorn that’ll give your tongue a tingle. You’ll want to use it on chicken.
  • Shichimi togarashi: 7-spices chili pepper which includes hemp seed is used on all sorts of things if you like to spice up your food (not really spicy).
  • Furikake: a seasoning which is a mixture of fish flakes, dried seaweed, and sesame seeds.
  • Shio (salt): I’m adding this one because just a little on items like the beef tongue goes great just with salt.

“Grand-day” or “grand-dee”, WTF! I’m not Italian, but either is Starbucks which is from Seattle. So getting people to order in foreign languages does contribute to the experience, but for some, it can be a challenge or intimidating. Also, I doubt “small, medium, large and the all Murican size of “XXL” are marketable in Italy although we won’t know that till they open a Starbucks in Italy in 2018. The language also goes the same for ordering in an authentic yakitori-ya in LA because they’ll often have things in both Japanese and English, but I’m sure even attempting to pronounce “tsukune” can be rather initimadating.

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I liked how they translated over the yakitori experience into an experience for all Murican’s in good ole English.

In a typical Japanese yakitori-ya, you’ll see small little papers all over the restaurant with their daily specials.

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The menu: you can order all at once, but instead, try to order a bit at a time throughout the night. That way your order is always hot off the grill.

Just like a yakitori-ya where you’d mark down what you want on a sheet, Oak & Coal has a similar ordering system although with a laminated menu that you can mark up for continual reuse.

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Kind of tasted like a Shin Ramyun (it’s a real popular Korean instant ramen/ramyun) potsticker with a very lean filling

Started off with some of their Kimchi Dumplings (6 for $6) which I think they said was a combo of chicken, pork, and beef. Three types of meat were said to be in here which didn’t sound right, but maybe there was a “Lost in Translation” on my part.

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Nuthin’ but a chicken wing aka “tebasaki“, $4. My only issue with this version is that it didn’t taste as though they seasoned it at all.

Unlike popular Buffalo chicken wing spots that deep fry their frozen chicken wings, most yakitori-ya’s use fresh chicken which is grilled right in front of you. Not only is freshness important, but so is the quality of the produce and meats which Oak & Coal has carried on with the use of Mary’s free range, organic, and hormone free chicken to the use of Kurobuta (Berkshire) pork, to Snake River Farms Wagyu.

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The “tare” seemed kind of off for some reason. There was a lingering aftertaste, but I’m sure it’s some opening kinks they’ll eventually work out.

Various types of yakitori are typically pre-seasoned with either two basic seasonings which are a tare (soy based glazed) or shio (salt).

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Left to right: shishito, chicken thigh and scallion, chicken meatballs, beef tongue, and Wagyu beef ribeye (“SR” Snake River Farms).

We Amuuuuricans should be familiar with meat on a stick because most backyard grilling has similarities with yakitori and “shish” or “seekh kabob’s“.

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How’s that for a chicken meatball (tsukune). The green bits are “shiso” leaves.

The chicken meatballs are kind of like the signature style of a yakitori-ya because they’ll differ from place to place.

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Making coal great again by charring this nice fatty, crispy, chicken skin, (kawa) $3.50

There’s parts of a chicken that most didn’t even know that existed, or you never knew people would be eating like cartilage (nankotsu), skin (kawa), heart (hatsu), to the chicken tail (bonjiri). BTW, these aren’t all available here, and I have a hard time finding me some tail even at other yakitori-ya’s.

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Garlic “niniku” $2.50

We didn’t get a dab of miso (soybean), but miso is really good with grilled garlic or all by itself.

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Skewers/sticks “kushi”

And FINALLY what to do with all the skewers. Whelp, there you have it, they go right into this little cup.

EDIT (7/2/17): So one last bit that was brought up to me which is, is this cultural (mis)appropriation? I’m of course no expert, but I don’t think so at all because I don’t see it as exploitative. I think that because there’s a certain level of knowledge of the culture and food that the person has to have to pull a business like this off. From what I’ve seen and experienced, I feel that it’s got the core attributes of what makes a yakitori-ya what it is, but it’s being marketed to appeal to a way wider audience. If you don’t agree or do agree, I’d like to know your thoughts either way.


Oak & Coal

333 East 17th Street #2, Costa Mesa, CA.
949-287-6150
www.oakandcoalcm.com
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